The 11th of February was the day the very first Japanese emperor was crowned; therefore this date is named the National Foundation Day (Kenkoku Kinenbi) and has become one of many national holidays derived from a prior emperor.
Since this day falls on a Monday this year, it meant a long weekend for us, so we packed the car and went to a onsen hotel in a city called Aizu-Wakamatsu. Spending time in an onsen is THE most popular way to spend your vacation here in Japan, and everybody does it several times per year.
So, what is an onsen? An onsen is a hot spring, which there by the way is many of here, due to the volcanoes. The onsens are either public or privately owned by a hotel like the one we went to.
The most important thing is that you go to the onsen to relax. It is pure pleasure – and it is said that the water, depending of its contents of minerals have healing effects on you. The baths are often separated gender wise - and the clever ones enjoy an ice-cold beer or cold sake as they soak them selves in the often unbelievable hot water.
This sounds super nice. There is just one tiny catch. You have to skinny-dip! Bathing clothes (often also tattoos) are strictly forbidden. For a shy, tall, Scandinavian girl – it can be a challenging limit to cross, to share these baths nude with several tiny Japanese women.
Anyway, this time, we paid us out of it. I mean, you need to start somewhere! We arranged a hotel room (well helped by Henriks Japanese interpreter) where we had our own private bath. Now we are talking! Not only did we have the privacy, and the benefit of sharing the bath instead of being separated in man and women baths – we also had none stop access for 24 hours to the most gorgeous steaming hot pool with a view to the mountains! If that isn’t what life is all about, what is?
Well actually we must admit, that this is not something we could just jump in to. We did try though, but jumped out of the pool even quicker than we got in. Damn it is hot! You can feel you skin reacting to the hot water, your nails tickles as if they are ready to jump off and after few minutes in the water, you prefer to sit next to the open balcony door, even though it must have been freezing cold as it snowed out side...
During the day we could gradually extend the time we spent in the bath pr time, but we honestly never got really familiar with the hot water. Anyway, we are sure, this will be an appreciated luxury way of spending many of our weekends here in Japan.
As we had one of the better rooms at the hotel it meant we had our own private garden instead of a hall! The garden had gravel to symbolize water, and bigger stones as sort of a bridge. In this context the bridge symbolized a change of mindset. You walk from your stressful normal life outside the room, and arrive at a place where it is all about finding peace and harmony in your thoughts. So neat!
The room we entered was spacious and in typical Japanese style with tatami mats at the floor, flower arrangements, green tea and legless chairs, meaning you practically sit on the floor. And then there was a really nice surprise: a super advanced electric massage chair! Did we fight over it, or what?
There were also yukatas for us, with is a kind of cotton kimonos, which is the proper dress to wear at a place like that...also at the restaurant...!
There was no place to sleep though…strange! Giving it no further thought, we went to the restaurant area for dinner. Once more, we were impressed by the creativity in the Japanese kitchen. Several dishes were lined up for us in our private booth, inclusive a fruit cocktail, we thought. The cherry turned out to be a tomato, and there were raw octopuses mixed with the fresh pineapple pieces. We also had a big bowl of boiling soymilk, to fry our chicken and shitake mushrooms in, and we had a hot stone, where we could fry scrimps and pieces of an octopussy. This was all new to us. We also had a little of the more common things for us like sashimi (raw fish), tiny whole squids and of cause we ordered beers and a bottle of sake. Campai!
When we returned to the room, the low table had been removed and our futons had been made up! A futon is basically a semi hard thin madras put directly on the floor…and it is no cliché that you need to be costumed to sleep on a futon, before you can really enjoy it. We are still in the process :o)
Aizu-Wakamatsu is not all about onsens. During the Edo period it was home to a Samurai clan, and there are several traces left behind to tell the (hi)story, like a five-floor castle, that used to be the headquarters of the clan, the mountain where a group of samurais committed suicide, and Saigo Tanomos villa named Aizu Bukeyashiki.
We went to the latter as it was on the way from our onsen to the center of Aizu.
Saigo Tanomo was a master of martial arts and a skilled military strategist. He was the retainer of the Clans chief and his Yashiki (villa) is quite impressive with 38 rooms and tons of stuff dating back to the Edo period. We passed the many different drawing rooms, the room where Tanomos wife and children committed suicide, and the lavatory secured against ninjas.
We passed samurai armors and spears, drawers and kimonos and Henrik almost bought a Samurai sword while Barbara figured out what some of Dads things really are for, like the inros for carrying medicine. The place had quite many signs in English, so we did pick up a few details about the Edo-period, but we both feel like reading up on the subject, probably starting with Shogun.
We could easily have spent much more time there than we did, but it was freezing, and as you should take of your shoes as you enter the un-heated villa, you kind of hurry through the place. We are pretty sure though, that we will take another look at the place during the summer, as well as we would love to see the other sights in Aizu...as soon as it gets warmer.
We also spent some time in the center of Aizu, where we tried a couple of restaurants and went shopping for lacquer ware.
One place we ate at was Takino. It was a very traditional place, where you have to sit on the floor to eat. This place did not have a hole under the table to stick your long legs into, as we have had all the other ‘traditional’ places we visited… nope – this was just a pillow on the floor! After trying to sit in the formal position for few minutes, we gave up and tried to sit in other positions…kept changing them, could not find a position that really worked for us – reckon we need to practice the floor sitting thing.
At Takino we had a local dish called Wappa meshi, which is steamed fish over rice, cooked and served in a round container made of tree bark. It tasted really good and special, as the food takes taste of the bark. We also got a couple of surprise side dishes... - One was horse meat! That was a new one for us.
Another restaurant we went to was Mitsutaya. We really wanted to go there, but we couldn’t find it and it was freezing cold. To get warmer, we went into a shop for browsing, and who would have imagined that we would find the restaurant in the back of the shop! We guessed that the sign outside probably told us that, but if you cant read the signs, what good does it?
We were happy that we stumbled into the place by coincidence. The restaurant was set up in a former bean-paste mill. Bean paste is very popular in Japan, as it is one of their key seasonings called Miso.
The line for the place was huge, but Henrik had us added to the waiting list anyway and we found a place to sit and wait for a table. We thought about shopping some of the many delicacies at the shop, but dropped the idea knowing we would have no clue what to do with them. A man approached us on his way out, handing us a brochure – in English, explaining all about Miso. Nice guy!
A little hour later, we got a table at the ‘bar’ and ordered the set menu, consisting of 7 different kind of Dengaku, which are bamboo skewers with grilled tofu, fish or veggies. Great taste!
We arrived back in Koriyama Monday afternoon after three nice days in Aizu, feeling we have learned quite a bit more about the magnificent place called Japan…we still have a long way to go though. Luckily!