Tempura - with a Spanish translation

After a couple of months hunt, we finally succeeded in finding a Tempura restaurant in Koriyama.
Tempura is the Japanese version of deep fried food, less greasy than any variation we so far have come across in Europe and one of our favourites when it comes to Japanese food.

The restaurant was empty when we arrived, so we had the chef and his wife all by our selves. It turned out that they had lived in South America for 20 years, so their Spanish was quite good, making it for once, possible for us to have a relaxed conversation with inhabitants of Koriyama without a big language gap.
Our menu included octopus, shrimps, asparagus, tororo, different kind of fish, shitake mushrooms and beans (mame) all gently deep fried and then dipped in either the tasty sauce thickened with grated daikon or just by dipping it in salt.

Actually, there was no 'just' about the salt. It was grated in front of us, from something that looked like a pink/orange semitransparent ice cube. This was not just salt. This was salt from the Himalayas!

We will go back again, for sure. Great company, good food and a superb chance for us to practice our Spanish :-)

The final dot was set at a good coffee place, practicing Japanese. The test coming up, is really motivating us.

Ikebana

I received a present from my Sensei today. It was a kind of tool to maintain Kenzan with. Kenzan is the spiny plates you use to attach the flowers to - the round one on the pic.
As Dad has borrowed me many of mums old Kenzan, it came in very handy!

The day's decoration was difficult as always and I have still only a vague idea of what to do,- its all about triangles and making miniature of the real nature,- and to make sure that the plants and flowers talk to each other like one big happy family. Even though it is difficult, I am really determined to learn it.

I also learned how three different branches, can make an awesome simple, very japanese decoration.

The pic shows the basic equipment I use during the class.

Ice Cucumber

A new product has found its way to the Japanese shelves: A very green cucumber flavoured Pepsi! What does cola and cucumber have in common? (Please let us know if you figure it out).

Having said that,- it does feel good to be in a place where we are frequently amused by the great variety of products - many we have never heard of or could imagine.



Where else can you meet square melons and tomatos and Kit Kat in endless flavor variations such as green tea, pumpkin, cherry blossom, chestnut, mango, apple, kiwi, cinnamon, sweet potato, plum etc.?

Japanese language proficiency test, level 4

We just did a scary thing. We signed up for the official Japanese test, despite our teachers recommendations. The 'Japanese language proficiency test' will take place in early December. To pass the test we need to be familiar with the basic grammar, know the meaning of 800 words and be able to read 100 Kanji. Also, the whole test will be written in the Japanese letters, hiragana, katakana og kanji. 

The grammar will probably not be a problem and our voculabary is probably also sufficient. But the Kanji...we have not started to study it yet. But then again, we have 5 months to go, so it should be possible. 

Ganbatte kudasai! 

First visit to Japans big neighbour

It was with big expectations I went to China to visit my colleagues in Tianjin and Beijing. China is in many ways having a hard time and it was interesting to get a first-hand experience with this so criticized country.

The first that struck the eye, was the differences in infrastructure and ‘driving-culture’; where Japan is maybe one of the safest and organised countries in the World to drive a car, China has a much more aggressive traffic.

However, after arriving well in TEDA (the development district outside the 14-million habitant mega-city Tianjin), I was met by luxurious cars and brand new buildings. And where have all the bicycles gone?

I spend the two days in China visiting my Chinese and Danish colleagues (expatriates) talking a lot about all the differences and similarities between Japan and China. It is fascinating how two neighbours can develop so radically different, but at the same time shows many identical cultural characteristics.
One example is the thing about saying “No”, which is almost non-existing in both countries. In Denmark it is very easy to say “No”, and if you get a “Yes” as a Dane, you would expect it to indicate an agreement, but here it most likely means “Yes, I hear and understand what you say”.

Beijing was a fantastic experience; literally I walked in wet cement! The Olympic city was bustling with thousands of cranes and construction sites to prepare the city for 2008.08.08 08:08.


We spent the late afternoon visiting the Tiananmen Square, the outer parts of the Forbidden City and at a traditional acrobatics show in the heart of Beijing. All in all a very good, however short trip that awoke the appetite for visiting this magnificent country again.

Home and happy

When expatriated to Brazil, we remember our first home visit to Denmark. We remember the pain we felt arriving in Montes Claros again. An almost unbearable home sickness showed up as soon as the plane from dk touched Brazilian ground and we passed through the toughest weeks ever being abroad. In the end, you all know, we ended being very happy in Montes Claros, but one can never know pre-hand.
Anyway, looking back today, we know that the biggest test of how we really feel about Koriyama comes in the heels of our first home visit.

It just passed. We went to Dk about three weeks ago. Denmark looked more beautiful than ever, with the early summer sun spreading calmness and hygge all around. Though Henrik was busy working, somehow we did manage to see many of our beloved ones. We spent quality time with friends and family and got to know the new generation growing up as everybody are having babies these days. We indulged our selves in Rhubarb, rugbrød and black liquorice and we were constantly reminded by heart why we do love all these wonderful people of dk.

The time spent in Dk, seemed by many stressful, but that was by choice. We wanted to see as many as possible, which is why we never spent a night the same place two nights in a row.

We arrived in Koriyama again this Sunday and are relieved to say, that we still enjoy very much being here. It felt good returning home.
We are as always looking foreward to the many adventures waiting for us around the corner, but also, for once, we embrace the calmness we receive in this dot on earth, named Koriyama. People say, passing the thirties reliefs a greater gratitude and awareness of life, so maybe it is because of that – or just maybe it is the opportunity we have to be in such an inspiring place as Japan.

One way or the other. We are home. We are happy.

Natto - a healthy breakfast

One of the most curious foods we so far have come across in Japan is Natto. Especially in our region (Tohoku) it is a very popular eating for breakfast, but we haven’t really had our way around it, wholehearted, yet.
But there is a first thing for everything.

Our Japanese teacher knows how fond we are of trying the local dishes, so when she yesterday went to a neighbouring city that apparently is famous for its Natto production she bought us a souvenir.

The wrapping was beautiful simple and very traditional, with straws tied together. She hadn’t given away what the present was, so when it was opened the smell mislead one to believe it was some sort of strong cheese.


Natto is a sticky dish made by steaming soy beans and letting them ferment with natto fungi. As said the smell can be quite aquired for a newbie and the look as well. When you touch the nattos, strings like a spiders web is created.


The most traditional way to eat Natto is on a bowl of rice, supplemented with a little soy sauce and mustard. Itadakimasu.

Note of how to pay

New thing learned. When paying a teacher the teaching fee, we should always use NEW money (easily changed in the bank), to show respect to the teacher.
Even 'simple' things are not as simple as first thought...How many other mistakes do we yet have to correct?... Wonder how many people we are offending every day, unknowingly :-S

A rainy day in the mountains

Apparently today's plan was to go hunting for fresh bamboo shots in the mountains with the chigiri-e group. Unfortunately I had forgotten the plan, so the rest of the gang had patiently waited for me, for over an hour before they finally decided to call me...Embarrassed? Me? I bowed and gomenasaied like I had never done before!
Anyways, - off we went. First stop was at a stream to stock up on fresh drinking water. The white paper decoration on the robe is because the stream is near a shinto shrine. Usually the decorated robe indicates that the place is sacred, or it indicates the presence of the 'kami' or spirit of the place. That kind of paper decoration is said to be the earliest type of paperfolding in Japan.
The surroundings of Koriyama are beautiful, with mountains and rice fields everywhere. This is 'Sakura yama', which means the cherry tree blossom mountain:

The yet unplanted, but already water-filled ricefields offered great reflexions of the mountains.
Unfortunately the fields were not the only place filled with water and before we reached the mountain top, the rain had started to pour down making it impossible to continue on with our original plan. Instead we took a closer look at the local wind mill park (the mills are German though and not Danish hrmpf), and we stopped at a private house for lunch (which did include bamboo and the largest onigiri I have ever had).

Them we returned back to Koriyama with a few stops on the way, first one being this flower field :


Then we did a small hike,

had another sip of fresh water, with a neat drinking cup made of a leave,









and ended the day at the public footbath, with natural steaming hot spring water. Nothing can beat the feeling of soothing hot water after a hike.

Feeling at home

A laid back weekend in Koriyama included great food, rice field watching, new company, lots of shopping, lots of blog updating and hours of sunshine and strong wind.





We discovered a couple of new eateries. A ramen restaurant with modern style decor and good noodles, a cool restaurant with bamboo all over the place, plates decorated with orchids, modern food from asian countries and a waiter that spoke really good English, and, with a japanese/australian couple we had met earlier that evening we went to a kind of french wine bar. Yep, we have everything in Koriyama, We sure do :)

No kidding, it was a great weekend where we somehow for the first time felt we belong in Koriyama. This is our home now and why not?

P.S. We also went to a really good kaiten-sushi... but as we have already been there a couple of times before it does not really count in this post.
A kaiten is a kind of fast food sushi place, where tiny plates of sushi circulate around in the restaurant on a conveyer belt. Whatever comes by on the belt you like, you just take. When you are full the waiter will count your stable of empty plates and you pay. Our record so far is 22 plates.

Ikebana

Ikebana is the Japanese way of arranging flowers.

The tradition of Ikebana origins from monks hundreds of years ago arranging flower offerings to Buddha. The inspiration for Ikebana is found in the nature and in the end the Ikebana creates a link to the nature. Ikebana is said to have a deep philosophical meaning, thus the work with the flowers are best done in silence. Ikebana is in fact sometimes used as therapy against depression.

There exist many different kinds of Ikebana, but the oldest one is the Ikebono, which is the kind I (Barbara) takes classes in. The basic principle is the three main branches, named Shin, Soe and Tai. They represent heaven, man and earth.

Yesterday I had my first class. The teacher is very skilled and also very welcoming despite the fact that she rearranged every flower I placed in the container. Ikebana is very difficult. Balance, harmony, serenity and respect are some of the values I so far have picked up being important to the process of arranging the flowers. It is much more complicated than I thought. There are many rules to learn, which can be quite difficult as I receive instructions in Japanese most of the time.

Ganbatte kudasai!

Rice fields

When we came back from South Korea, many of the rice fields in Koriyama had been planted. It is a very speciel sight to see the many fields covered with water, with strings of the tiny rice plants.

The fields are not very big, but endeed there are many of them,- squeezed in whereever there are a piece of empty land. One evening we went to take a closer look. Here is our shots:

Gyoza lesson

In Kalmia, b had the opportunity to learn how to make chinese dumplings, as another member gave a lesson.

It was a fun day - the best detail being the making of the stuffing with only chopsticks! Asian style of cooking :-)

The dumplings ended being delicious. Love them!!!

ROK #7: Taekwon-do

In the homeland of taekwon-do, we were fascinated by the excellent skills and the perfection by the Korean fighters.
By coincidence, we found a 1½-hour demonstration in front of one of the palaces.

Jumping this high must have been difficult for even Michael Jordan:


This fighter has just walked several meters blindfolded (!) and is kicking of an apple from the tip of a knife!


This kicking technique speaks for itself:


The stills also show the immaculate technique of the Korean fighters (click to enlarge):





On the first photo you can see the whole apple before the kick and on the second photo it is possible to see the pieces of the apple scattered in the air, the sharpe knife and the board that was to be broken in the same kick.

Read much more about taekwon-do here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taekwondo

ROK #6: Palaces

Since the founder of the Joseon Dynasty moved the Capital to Seoul in 1394 many beautiful palaces have been built.
We visited four of them: Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyenggung and Gyeonghuigung. They all had many resemblances, though the 'newest' one had western furniture and an old Lincoln parked. Feng shui had an important role in deciding the location of the palace.

At the Gyeongbokgung Palace we watched the change of the gate guard as it was done in the 15th century, which gave us an idea of how colourful the Korean culture was during the Joseon Dynasty.



The drum is used to coordinate the guards’ actions.








The main gate to the Gyeongbokgung palace:


On the roofs of the most important buildings in the palaces are located animal figures. The more animals, the more important is the building:


The animals, led by the Monkey King protect the building against evil forces:


A palace consists of many buildings (one palace used to have more than 300 buildings!). These buildings include residential areas for the royal family (the king and the queen slept separately), administrative buildings for both the king and the government, minor palaces for the queen and the crown prince etc. Many of the buildings were lost during the Japanese occupation.


The inside decor of one of the palaces:


The roofs round shape was chosen to create a balance with the surrounding nature:




The 'secret garden' was only for the royal family, and nobody was allowed in there without the Kings permission. In the garden the King relaxed and regained his energy in a small pavilion for relaxation/meditation, on the pond in his fishing boat, or he studied in a library:

The pavilion:



Henrik in the kings garden:


At one palace, we saw a beautifully dressed couple having their pictures taken. A woman noticed we were looking and explained to us that it was a wedding couple. The woman on the picture is the bride:


Sitting in the palace court - absorbing the place, was a moment we treasured:

ROK #5: Korean Food

The food culture in Korea is quite different from Japan, - whereas food in Japan tend to be mild and delicate and mainly consist of fish, the Korean food is indeed spicy and can be very meaty. The most famous dish in Korea and unavoidable no matter where or what you eat is kimchi, which is spicy pickled cabbage. It is always served as a starter and comes in endless varieties.

The photo shows a Korean set menu. The kimchi is in top left corner.

Korea is also famous for their barbeque. You receive thin slices of marinated raw meat, and grill it yourself at the table, then roll them up in freash lettuce and voilá!. This dish has become quite popular in Japan as well and is Henriks favourite.

The pride of all food products might be the Red Ginseng, that only grows in Korea, Northern China and Siberia. It is a slow grower - best harvested after 6 years and is therefore quite expensive. It is said to be effective against stress, some types of cancer and diabetes type II. The red ginseng comes in tea, capsules, liquids, fresh and dried slices etc, and is found all over Seoul.

The Koreans also use the above products (chilli, kimchi and ginseng) in chocolate. Different!

Our most local food experience in Seoul, was at a restaurant in the Nandaewon area, where we each had a soup with a whole (!) chicken in, stuffed with rice and ginseng - with a ginseng-'whiskey' on the side of cause. See, now we are talking :-)

As in Japan, the Koreans eat with chopsticks, but made of metal instead of wood.

Tea takes up an important role in the culture as well. Korea has their own tea ceremonies and teahouses are a common sight. The variety of tea is much more abundant in Korea than in Japan, with teas made of jujube, aloe vera, ginger and rice, just to mention a few. The Koreans believe teas made with seasonal ingredients provide elements our bodies crave at particular times of the year thus the tea assortment varies through the year.

Korea gave us a good opportunity to explore another Asian food culture, which was very nice. Only one evening we had Japanese kaiten (sushi from a conveyer belt) in Seoul... Kaiten has become our Danish rugbrød - the one thing our body crave when we are abroad.

ROK #4: Traditional music

Drums and gongs with the “samul nori” tempo, dominate the Korean traditional music, which we got several chances to experience.
The music is widely used as entertainment, in Buddhism and traditionally in the farmer villages to ensure a good harvest.

This is an example from the taekwon-do demonstration:

The fierce looking women demonstrated an amazing rhythm:



This drum really takes a beating at the guard change ceremony at the Gyeongbokgung palace., and judged from looking at the little boy seen behind the drummer, the sound is quite loud:

One evening we went to see the performance “Nanta”, or “Cookin’” as the play is called when they perform in Western countries. Nanta takes all the traditional rhythms and make a breathtaking show that takes place in a kitchen, where pots, pans and everything else in the kitchen is used to make the music. It was quite entertaining - but the Korean music is best enjoyed made with a drum than with kitchen knifes, pots and huge jars of Kimchi.

ROK #3: Religion in Korea

Buddism takes up an important part of the Korean culture. There are more than 9000 temples and 11 million followers.

In Seoul we found a whole road dedicated to Buddhism where colourful lotus lanterns, monk clothes, prayer beads, Buddhist writings, drums, incenses, music for meditation and so one is well represented. It is a kind of weird browsing through these shops, but in a fun way.

On this road is also located one of the few temples in Korea that is not located in the tranquil mountains. This temple, the Jogyesa Temple, is the centre of Zen Buddhism in Korea.

The main temple building, is about 500 years old and colourful decorated. The lotus flower is one of the most common used symbols in Buddism as it stands for awakening to the spiritual reality of life.

Many people prayed and meditated in front of the great Buddha statues while we were there. We chatted with a friendly Korean guy who told us that he had learned about the Danes, Grundtvig and Dalgas at school, and we talked to one of the people working at the temple, about the upcoming lotus lantern festival and the temple stays. Both could be cool to take part of one day.

Our final stop down the road of Buddhism for now was at the restaurant Sanchon. A former monk started this restaurant which serves vegetarian food mostly made of ingredients from the mountains and inspired by the temple life. Temple cuisine emphasis on fresh vegetables and herbs reflects a tradition of Korean cooking of closeness to the nature. That evening we had more that 20 different dishes ranging from the Korean traditional pickled cabbage to different roots and mushrooms.


We also tasted the home brewed wine, which were quite different than any wine we have ever tried. So were the colour and the decanter.





Religion is not really taking up a big part of our lives – but after a couple of days in Seoul, you cannot help feeling a bit more spiritual.